For the Academy’s chefs-in-residence, practicing sustainability means more than buying local and organic; it means preserving food cultures — Vietnamese being one of those. Ph? and ch? giò are among the global dishes served as authentically as possible at the Academy.

'"The world is getting smaller and people are changing, and I’m really afraid that a lot of these local identities will get lost because of this (globalization),"' said Charles Phan, chef and owner of The Slanted Door. He partnered with fellow renowned San Francisco chef Loretta Keller, chef and owner of COCO5OO, to create the Academy’s casual Café and full-service Moss Room restaurant.

The eateries and its academy home opened to the public this fall.

Phan and Keller focused on cultural diversity when they presented their '"big idea"' for the venues, Phan said.

'"For me, it was not enough to talk about sustainability in terms of buying local and organic food. I think that’s sort of obvious. But we also have to start addressing cultures being lost or a certain breed of animal being lost (or) a way of eating being lost,"' said Phan, who was born in  Ðà L?t, Vi?t Nam, in 1962. Phan, his parents and five siblings left Vi?t Nam and moved to Guam in 1975 after the war, and in 1977, the family moved to San Francisco.

The cafeteria-style Café offers an international menu and has a capacity of about 300 people with outdoor seating. The upscale dining restaurant The Moss Room has a capacity of about 90 and serves Mediterranean food.

The chefs’ vision for sustaining food cultures fit in seamlessly with what was designed to be the '"greenest museum"' in the world.

'"Our goal was to create a new facility that would not only hold powerful exhibits but serve as one itself, inspiring visitors to conserve natural resources and help sustain the diversity of life on Earth,"' said Gregory Farrington, the Academy’s executive director.

Giant unique features, like a 2.5-acre living green roof, which reduces storm water runoff by up to 3.6 million gallons of water per year, and a glass canopy of nearly 60,000 photo voltaic cells display ways in which the Academy practices sustainability.

For those who recognize its authenticity, meals at the Academy’s Café taste much like they would if cooked in their respective countries. Museum visitors who haven’t had any of the food available on the Café ‘s menu get exposed to the cultural diversity, Phan said. Selections span the globe from Vietnamese to Mediterranean to Italian.

'"My whole thing about food is not just about buying organic food but also that food has a story and a history,"' Phan said. '"I try to bring a little piece of Vi?t Nam to San Francisco as close as I can get them, and stay true to the source and the story."' It’s the difference between bánh xèo from Hu? and bánh xèo from Sài Gòn, he said. These variations tell the story of people and places.

In spite of the ever-changing nature of food and culture, some indigenous aspects remain and keeping these intact means preserving details big and small, something as simple as how food is cut, Phan said.

Glass walls allow visitors to watch the entire food-making process as it unfolds. '"The architect was able to make it with all glass so you could see how food is being prepared. It seems to work. A lot of people are really intrigued,"' Phan said. Glass walls are used throughout the museum to foster a sense of transparency and interconnectedness.

While cultural diversity guided menu selection, logistics and practicality also came into consideration, Phan said. Thousands of people visit the museum daily, spending several hours on average touring the exhibits and facilities. The idea is to offer them all diverse, fresh meals while sustaining the world and its cultures.

About the restaurants
The Academy Café offers a multicultural menu designed to appeal to appetites of all ages. Open daily during standard museum hours.
Open: 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily
Price range: $3 to $11
Signatures: Vegetarian spring rolls, imperial rolls, albacore tuna panini, tacos, fresh pastries
Note: Until Oct. 1, 2009, California Academy of Science admission ($24.95) is required to dine at the Academy Café.
Information: (415) 876-6124.
The Moss Room is a full service restaurant that features cuisine created with local, organic and seasonal ingredients. Reservations are recommended.
Open: Lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. daily; dinner 5:30-10:00 nightly.
Closed: Thanksgiving and Christmas.
Signatures: Grilled Monterey Squid-chickpeas, swiss chard, jalapeno pesto/smoked trout salad-fingerling potatoes, quail eggs, horseradish, cavelo nero, davero olive oil
Price range: appetizers, $8 to $14 and entrees, $18 to $29
Reservations and information: (415) 876-6121 or www.opentable.com

About the Academy
The new California Academy of Sciences is home to Steinhart Aquarium, Kimball Natural History Museum, Morrison Planetarium, and world-class research and education programs. A four-story living rainforest and coral reef ecosystem greet visitors of all ages, while interactive space shows transport audiences beyond the boundaries of our planet. Opportunities abound to meet Academy scientists, share in their discoveries, and join the journey to make the world a greener, more sustainable place to live.
Source: www.calacademy.org

The California Academy
of Sciences
55 Music Concourse Drive
Golden Gate Park
San Francisco
Information: (415) 379-8000 or www.calacademy.org